adventures with Jen Olson

Posts tagged “Alpine Climbing

Aguja Guillaumet Squared

I am grateful to Saule Zukauskaite, Arunas Kamandulis, and Gediminas Simutis for this fantastic opportunity to climb in Patagonia. Saule, Aras and Gedas proposed this trip to Mammut for the 150 year project and it was selected. Thanks to Mammut for choosing me to accompany this talented team of young climbers.

For more information on Aguja Guillaumet look here.

We climbed the routes: Brenner-Moschioni  350 m 6b and Comesaña-Fonrouge 350 meters 6b+

The view from my window at my posada, Inlandsis, the day of our departure

Buenos Dias and the waning Luna

Gedas, Saule and Aras... ready to giv'er

definitely 6 tons!

Starting the grind...

We started our march to the promised land on December 12th. We ended up camping in the valley at Piedra del Fraile after taking a load up to Piedra Negra. On December 13, we hiked from the valley at ~500m, changed up our loads at Piedra Negra (~1300m) and continued up to Paso Guillaumet where the rock climbing begins, a few pitches of quality rock climbing gets you to the aesthetic crux pitch.

At Piedre Negra, ready for action

The left summit is Guillaumet

The crux pitch on the Brenner-Moschioni

Saule on perfect alpine granite

loving the shadows and the cracks

Rising to the ridgeline

Looking back at the ridge we climbed

Summit Shot ~2579m

We gratefully summited at 8:30pm after ascending a little over 2000m from the valley.

starting the descent with fantastic views

the shadow of the aguja in the valley below

We rappelled the Guillot couloir into fading light.

Finishing the rappels, back to the Paso Guillaumet for a midnight snack

We arrived back at our tents around 3 am. We spend the next day resting, recovering and sheltering ourselves from the heat and the sun. Climbers say they haven’t seen it be so hot here in previous seasons.

On December 14, we decided to head back up Aguja Guillaumet–to minimize our time on the not so frozen snow. Aras, Gedas and Saule did a great job of leading us up the approach on snow, keeping the momentum on the route and up to the Amy couloir.

Crux Pitch of Comesaña-Fonrouge

Fitzroy group shadow on Pollone

a happy guida

Gedas leading the rappels

the last rappel

Racing down to beat the heat

Gratefully back at the trailhead, without our packs on our backs

crammed into the taxi

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Team Lithuania in Patagonia

Gedis, Aras and Saule

Today we went for a 5 pitch rock climb. Bolts, around 5.10 or 6a. Very fun outing. A little bit windy– good training for us to get to know each other and get into thinking about alpine climbing.

Gedis on the 1st pitch

in the rhythm

enjoying the views

the wind picks up

our 1st summit - many more to come ; )

to rescue training...

So after a day of getting to know each other and some rescue review… we are off to the mountains. Tomorrow we will hike into Piedre Negra and hope to climb Guillomet and Aguja Pollone in the next couple days….


Classic Chamonix Climbs with fellow Canucks, Joanna and Tom

get your game face on for the Aiguille du Midi arete

the Cherie Couloir on the triangle du tacul... beside the trois mont route on mont blanc

the crux pitch ~ WI 3-4

Joanna cranking out the crux

Tom is happy not to be under Joanna or any other parties for that matter : )

the last pitch of perfect ice and stone

an impressive glacier and valley far below

riding the Helbronner to the Torino hut, a mountain guide's dream of transportation

Bonjourno Dent du Geante and Torino rifugio

"getting dressed" in the morning

Aiguille de Entrevs ridge traverse from right to left

So many great ridge photos!

Joanna coming to grips with her fear of exposed places! WOW! impressive...

great views from the Helbronner

OUT OF THE MONT BLANC MASSIF AND ONTO THE AIGUILLE ROUGE SIDE OF THE VALLEY TO APPRECIATE WHERE WE HAVE BEEN….

its all about the vistas

Traverse of the Crochues follows the ridge from left to right starting at the 'V' notch

a superb ridge traverse

Next stop... Lac Blanc

the popular Lac Blanc, well worth the hike

sit down, relax, eat and drink: croute, omlette, tart, beer, wine and rose!

a tipsy bumble back to the top of the Index lift

a sweet ride down before the evening storm


The Mont Blanc

A photo story of climbing this prolific mountain from the Cosmiques Hut on the traverse of the three summits.

Mont Blanc from Lac des Cheserys

Early Morning Light on the Tacul du Mont Blanc

Weaving through the seracs on the Tacul du Mont Blanc

Perfect conditions despite the storm

the traverse from the tacul to the maudit

the technical cruxes of the route lie on the Mont Maudit

Pitched climbing on the Maudit

Amazing views of the Aiguille du Midi rising above the clouds

Castles in the Sky

SUMMIT! despite challenging winds, late start and adverse conditions ; )

descending the Gouter ridge

On the way down from the Tete Rousse hut in the morning

Walking the tracks when the train is under repair

On a recent trip, we summitted the Tacul du Mont Blanc under adverse conditions:

Walking out of the Aiguille du Midi requires full concentration

winds on the summit ridge

turn the volume down ; )

climbing to the summit of the tacul

a grateful summit without wind

rush hour on the aiguille du midi


Tantalus Range in July 2009

The clouds made for a interesting day, no boring blue sky :  )

The clouds made for a interesting day, no boring blue sky : )

I recently visited the Tantalus Range and the Jim Haberl Hut. What a fantastic place! We climbed Dione and Serratus. We had near perfect conditions and weather, as well as a working BBQ at the hut for a steak dinner.

Dave Thorburn joined me and we thoroughly enjoyed the views, the climbing and the luxury of the Jim Haberl Hut.

Sunrise on Serratus

Sunrise on Serratus
Steep snow Climbing

Steep snow Climbing

Tantalus and Dione in the background

Tantalus and Dione in the background

Jim Haberl Hut

Jim Haberl Hut