I am grateful to Saule Zukauskaite, Arunas Kamandulis, and Gediminas Simutis for this fantastic opportunity to climb in Patagonia. Saule, Aras and Gedas proposed this trip to Mammut for the 150 year project and it was selected. Thanks to Mammut for choosing me to accompany this talented team of young climbers.
For more information on Aguja Guillaumet look here.
We climbed the routes: Brenner-Moschioni 350 m 6b and Comesaña-Fonrouge 350 meters 6b+
The view from my window at my posada, Inlandsis, the day of our departure
Buenos Dias and the waning Luna
Gedas, Saule and Aras... ready to giv'er
definitely 6 tons!
Starting the grind...
We started our march to the promised land on December 12th. We ended up camping in the valley at Piedra del Fraile after taking a load up to Piedra Negra. On December 13, we hiked from the valley at ~500m, changed up our loads at Piedra Negra (~1300m) and continued up to Paso Guillaumet where the rock climbing begins, a few pitches of quality rock climbing gets you to the aesthetic crux pitch.
At Piedre Negra, ready for action
The left summit is Guillaumet
The crux pitch on the Brenner-Moschioni
Saule on perfect alpine granite
loving the shadows and the cracks
Rising to the ridgeline
Looking back at the ridge we climbed
Summit Shot ~2579m
We gratefully summited at 8:30pm after ascending a little over 2000m from the valley.
starting the descent with fantastic views
the shadow of the aguja in the valley below
We rappelled the Guillot couloir into fading light.
Finishing the rappels, back to the Paso Guillaumet for a midnight snack
We arrived back at our tents around 3 am. We spend the next day resting, recovering and sheltering ourselves from the heat and the sun. Climbers say they haven’t seen it be so hot here in previous seasons.
On December 14, we decided to head back up Aguja Guillaumet–to minimize our time on the not so frozen snow. Aras, Gedas and Saule did a great job of leading us up the approach on snow, keeping the momentum on the route and up to the Amy couloir.
Crux Pitch of Comesaña-Fonrouge
Fitzroy group shadow on Pollone
a happy guida
Gedas leading the rappels
the last rappel
Racing down to beat the heat
Gratefully back at the trailhead, without our packs on our backs
crammed into the taxi
Gedis, Aras and Saule
Today we went for a 5 pitch rock climb. Bolts, around 5.10 or 6a. Very fun outing. A little bit windy– good training for us to get to know each other and get into thinking about alpine climbing.
Gedis on the 1st pitch
in the rhythm
enjoying the views
the wind picks up
our 1st summit - many more to come ; )
to rescue training...
So after a day of getting to know each other and some rescue review… we are off to the mountains. Tomorrow we will hike into Piedre Negra and hope to climb Guillomet and Aguja Pollone in the next couple days….
get your game face on for the Aiguille du Midi arete
the Cherie Couloir on the triangle du tacul... beside the trois mont route on mont blanc
the crux pitch ~ WI 3-4
Joanna cranking out the crux
Tom is happy not to be under Joanna or any other parties for that matter : )
the last pitch of perfect ice and stone
an impressive glacier and valley far below
riding the Helbronner to the Torino hut, a mountain guide's dream of transportation
Bonjourno Dent du Geante and Torino rifugio
"getting dressed" in the morning
Aiguille de Entrevs ridge traverse from right to left
So many great ridge photos!
Joanna coming to grips with her fear of exposed places! WOW! impressive...
great views from the Helbronner
OUT OF THE MONT BLANC MASSIF AND ONTO THE AIGUILLE ROUGE SIDE OF THE VALLEY TO APPRECIATE WHERE WE HAVE BEEN….
its all about the vistas
Traverse of the Crochues follows the ridge from left to right starting at the 'V' notch
a superb ridge traverse
Next stop... Lac Blanc
the popular Lac Blanc, well worth the hike
sit down, relax, eat and drink: croute, omlette, tart, beer, wine and rose!
a tipsy bumble back to the top of the Index lift
a sweet ride down before the evening storm
A photo story of climbing this prolific mountain from the Cosmiques Hut on the traverse of the three summits.
Mont Blanc from Lac des Cheserys
Early Morning Light on the Tacul du Mont Blanc
Weaving through the seracs on the Tacul du Mont Blanc
Perfect conditions despite the storm
the traverse from the tacul to the maudit
the technical cruxes of the route lie on the Mont Maudit
Pitched climbing on the Maudit
Amazing views of the Aiguille du Midi rising above the clouds
Castles in the Sky
SUMMIT! despite challenging winds, late start and adverse conditions ; )
descending the Gouter ridge
On the way down from the Tete Rousse hut in the morning
Walking the tracks when the train is under repair
On a recent trip, we summitted the Tacul du Mont Blanc under adverse conditions:
Walking out of the Aiguille du Midi requires full concentration
winds on the summit ridge
turn the volume down ; )
climbing to the summit of the tacul
a grateful summit without wind
rush hour on the aiguille du midi
The clouds made for a interesting day, no boring blue sky : )
I recently visited the Tantalus Range and the Jim Haberl Hut. What a fantastic place! We climbed Dione and Serratus. We had near perfect conditions and weather, as well as a working BBQ at the hut for a steak dinner.
Dave Thorburn joined me and we thoroughly enjoyed the views, the climbing and the luxury of the Jim Haberl Hut.
Steep snow Climbing
Tantalus and Dione in the background
Jim Haberl Hut